Grab some cord and let's get going! Step 4: Let's Get to Weaving! If you have extra turns then use them as spacers either at the front or back. Use the turn count for the side dowel you've already established and divide it by 4. I typically don't put spacer turns on the sides so there are no gaps in the weave. Planning out the pattern for the side-to-side weaving (black) is simpler since the side dowels are the same length. One of the extra turns should be all the way to the right, but it's hard to tell. On my yellow chair I didn't realize I had made a spacer turn in the wrong place until I started writing this instructable. Don't forget to include the extra turns on the front.Ī turn out of place here or there is not going to be noticeable but try to avoid it. The number of spacer wraps at the beginning and end is where you'll want to place extra turns so your pattern is even. I typically start with 2 "spacers" turns on the front and 1 in the back and then see how it turns out. This should be done on paper using the turn counts you've already established. the seat is a square, then you can obviously skip this part.ĭetermine the number of 4 strand groups. If the front and back of your chair are the same length, i.e. Deleting these 6 turns and adding 2 extras in the front got my long strands running perpendicular to the front & back dowels. Note along the back there are no "spacer" turns between the cords in the first 2 groups of 4 long strands. To make up 8 turns I either added extra turns in the front or deleted turns across the back. Look closely at the first picture and compare the front and back patterns on each side. 16 / 2 = 8 extra turns on left side of front and 8 on right side of front.85 - 69 = 16 more turns on the front than back.Dividing by 2 meant 8 extra turns on each side of the front were needed for the center to be straight. Extra Turns / 2 = Extra Turns on Left and Right sides of front dowelĮxample: On this yellow chair the front had 85 turns and the back 69 turns so I needed to account for a 16 turn difference.Turns (front) - Turns (back) = Extra Turns to be made on Front.This is the number of extra turns you need to make up on the left and right side of the front dowel so the center will be straight. Subtract the number of turns across the back dowel from those on the front dowel to find the difference between them. Since the front is wider you must add more turns on its left and right sides so the center of the pattern will run straight from back to front. Using the number of turns on the front and back dowels, you need to (a) account for width difference between front and back and (b) determine how many groups of 4 cords you will make.Īccount for width difference. Lay out the "front-to-back" pattern (yellow). Try to wrap evenly and snuggly for best results. It's worth the time to quickly wrap each side and get a good count. I tried to estimate this by wrapping a few inches and then multiplying by the length (pic 2). In essence of time, I suggest wrapping around and around the entire length of the back dowel, front dowel and one side to get an accurate count of turns. You can always add more cord on the bottom side so it's not critical to be exact.įirst find out how many turns you'll be making on each side. This is a good estimate for similar sized chairs. The yellow & black chair measured 10.5" on each side, 13" front and 11" back and required 110 ft of yellow cord and 165 ft of black cord. Start by measuring all four sides of your chair. Most chairs will be similar in size, however variations will affect paracord usage. The only tricky part of this project is spacing the weave pattern evenly although it's pretty easy.
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